The Ugly Side of Beauty

It is no surprise that the cosmetics industry is booming. The idea of selling “beauty” has always been a lucrative one, and thanks to the growth of our global economy and the rise of disposable income, the global retail sales from the industry are rapidly increasing, and in 2019 there was estimated sales of $500 billion.

With the rise of cosmetic fads and trends and the intense presence of cosmetics in social media, it is hard to overlook the colorful and alluring presence of cosmetics in our markets. However, behind the images of “flawless” airbrushed skin and glossy hair is a complex system of exploitation, animal testing, and environmental concern. It isn’t as obvious as the fossil fuel industry or as popular as the fast food and meat industries, but the cosmetic industry’s ethical dilemmas are deeply-rooted and widely impactful.

Truthfully, I became so passionate about this subject matter because this industry was so prevalent in my life and consumer actions. I frequently read forums that praised having elaborate and expensive skincare routines, and I loved videos that showed featured makeup products delivered in flashy, decorative packages. While I stayed away from products tested on animals, I eventually could not turn a blind eye to an alarming accumulation of dusty plastic jars and bottles that starkly contrasted against the flowery messages and pictures featured in beauty advertisements. Over time, I have gathered an abundance of information, which I have now summarized into a brief overview of what I found about the “ugly” parts of the beauty industry, as well as several solutions and actions one can take to reduce the negative impact of the cosmetic industry.

The Societal and Environmental Impacts of Beauty

Plastic Pollution and Environmental Impacts

• Euromonitor found that by 2017, the beauty industry produced 76.8 billion plastic packaging units and packaging has the greatest plastic usage overall. While many recycle their plastic containers, several research studies indicate that only a small proportion of plastic waste actually gets recycled. It’s estimated that in 2015, around 55 percent of global plastic waste was discarded, 25 percent was incinerated, and 20 percent was recycled. Of the plastic waste produced between 1950 and 2015, only 9 percent was recycled.
• Plastics that are not recycled accumulate in landfills or cluster in masses such as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. The plastics, that will not break down for an estimated 600 years, pollute the oceans and harm marine life.

Unethical Supply Chains

• Many of the products used in popular skincare and makeup products such as palm oil, shea and cocoa butters, and mica are produced from industries that use forced labour and result in environmental degradation and destruction.
• Palm oil plantations contribute to the deforestation of Amazonian and Sumatran rainforests that indigenous people and many endangered animals reside in. Palm oil derivatives are very commonly used in lipsticks, soaps, and shampoos, and the palm oil business has led to the severe endangerment of 193 animal species.
• Child labor is common in the mining of mica, a mineral used to give products luster or sparkle. According to a recent report by the The Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations, up to 20,000 children are estimated to work in the mines, around 90% of which are illegal. The children earn less than 77 cents per day, and it is estimated that 5–10 children die each month in mica mines.

How to Take Action as Consumers

1. Follow the (Good) Trends: Many new and pre existing businesses are testing out and pushing for new methods to promote sustainability and reduce plastic usage. Purchase products that are refillable and reduce the amount of packaging, and prioritize buying products in glass or aluminum containers. Look for brands that ship in compostable, recycled packaging and boxes, or use recycled ingredients. Great examples would be the brand LOLI, as all of their products are in glass and they use compostable bags for shipment and Upcircle, as their products are made from coffee that would have been sent to landfills. Here is a great masterlist of sustainable skincare brands that implement several of these methods.
2. Go the 100: Limit your usage of one-use plastics like sheet masks or cotton pads. Before purchasing new products, completely use it up or give it to someone in need. Face cream made things worse? Try it on your legs or arms! Lipstick isn’t flattering? Give it to a friend, or donate sanitized/ gently used products to women shelters or various charities.
3. Look for labels such as Rainforest Alliance Certified, ECOCERT, and Fairtrade. Purchase from brands such as Lush that have banned natural micas in their products.

How to Take Action on the Business Side

1. Sustainability can work alongside profits: It’s commonly held that sustainability and “business” or “efficiency” cannot coexist, however research has shown that good sustainability and ESG practices correlate with lower operating costs, better profitability and superior share price performance. Many consumers are now demanding products to be sustainable, and sustainability-marketed products are seeing fast growth.
2. Advertise products, not packaging: While it is understandable why companies use elaborate, grand packaging with eye-catchers such as glitter, packaging is the dominant reason for plastic build up. Consider the shift to recycled plain packaging, with emphasis on the effectiveness of the products. Programs such as LoopStore are transforming one use products like shampoo or soaps into effective refill systems.
3. Change the Chain: Reduce or stop the usage of unsustainable ingredients such as palm oil, mica, and cotton. Many businesses have made the shift, without having to compromise quality or affordability. When producing plastics products, ensure that they don’t have stickers or labels that make them non-recyclable.

While the prospect of making such a prominent industry more sustainable may seem daunting, any action is beneficial when it comes to reducing our environmental impact. The future is bright, and many companies and consumers are taking serious initiative to revolutionize our standard. Sustainability doesn’t have to just be in the realms of our energy and food sources, as sustainability impacts all cycles. While the cosmetic industry’s goals aren’t necessarily to educate about landfills or our carbon footprint, that can change. Let’s take action to take the “ugly” out of beauty.

Written by: May Zhou | IQ Associate